Homer's Travels: Camino De Santiago - Bercianos Del Real Camino To Mansilla De Las Mulas

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Camino De Santiago - Bercianos Del Real Camino To Mansilla De Las Mulas

This day started off terribly.  I could hardly walk.  My ankle was painful.  I was walking without any blister padding and that was bothering me a bit as well.  At one point I was concerned I wouldn't reach my goal for that day.  My feet eventually numbed up a little and I was able to continue but I was limping because of the ankle.

Halfway to my destination I stopped, sat on a bench, took off my backpack and shoes, rubbed anti-inflammatory cream on my ankle, and slowly ate a snack (apple and principes if I recall correctly ... maybe some bread).  After a longer than normal break for me (11 minutes according to my GPS) I got up, geared up, and discovered the pain was gone.  It came back as I walked but it was not nearly as bad as it was that morning.

In the town of Reliegos I did something I rarely did - I stopped for food.  Bought some Tortilla Española and took a twenty-two minute break (according to my GPS).

I reached Mansillas de las Mulas feeling better than when I left Bercianos del Real Camino.  That's a plus in my book.  I entered the albergue to check in.  The hospitalero was busy so I pulled out a little note pad out of my pack and recorded my GPS data for the day.  The other hospitalera, LA, standing near by, started calling me Mr. GPS after that.  She was a pistol.

After checking in, LA noticed me limping around and told me to stop by later and she would look at my feet.  I mentioned I had tendinitis and she said, "OK, I'll cut off your foot."  Ha!

I did my chores and took a nap most of the afternoon.  I got up, ran  into PR and LS and we chatted a bit while we looked for a store that was open.  I found a pharmacy and, eventually an open store where I bought some food.  It was Sunday and not much else was open ... as usual.

Once again I ate very little.  I had a small sandwich, yogurt, and some fruit.  I wasn't doing my body any good I think.

I ran into LA and asked about my feet.  She sat me down and gave my blister some professional care.  I swear they felt better almost immediately.  She also explained how I should lace my boots to avoid tendonitis - Lace up all hooks when you are going up, lace up only the middle hooks when you are going down, and don't lace up any hooks when you are walking on a flat trail.  This turned out to be the secret.  I told her she should move to the beginning of the Camino so that pilgrims could be educated earlier.  So, was LA a doctor or just an experience hospitalera?  A few days later I learned from KSam that LA is a ... veterinarian. HA!  My hooves felt much better.

Day twenty-two ended with delightful conversation in the courtyard with PR, LS, LA, and two girls doing only a part of the Camino -  a Quebecois, and a Belgian.  I went to bed content and for the first time in a while I was ready for the adventure to continue.

Total Distance: 16.57 Miles (26.67 km)
Total Time: 6 hours 12 minutes
Total Elevation Up: 1,556 ft (474.27 m)
Total Elevation Down: 1,685 ft (513.59 m)

[Click on map for a larger version]


  1. Only one of my favorite alburgues!! Laura was a trip and a half!

  2. KSam: It was a nice albergue and Laura fixed my feet so I'm eternally grateful.