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| A wee beefeater. |
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| Stonehenge. (We must like this style as we bought four at different places.) |
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| Wooden ones are nice too like this one for Lindisfarne Priory. |
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| A nice city one from Stratford Upon Avon. |
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| A Scottish Hielan Coo. |
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| The Wrexham AFC mascot. |
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| A wee beefeater. |
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| Stonehenge. (We must like this style as we bought four at different places.) |
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| Wooden ones are nice too like this one for Lindisfarne Priory. |
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| A nice city one from Stratford Upon Avon. |
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| A Scottish Hielan Coo. |
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| The Wrexham AFC mascot. |
"History doesn't repeat itself, but it often rhymes." - Mark Twain
2024 was going to be the year of the nap but instead it became a crappy echo of 2016. 2016 started with the loss of family members and friends and ended with a disastrous election. This year we lost family members and friends and, once again, gained an incompetent government with a large side of corruption and stupidity.
I feel I was coasting most of this year. Few things excited me. Many things left me dumbfounded. Eight months of this year were all about my Mom. My schedule revolved around hers. I think I lost a little of myself during those months. The passing of my Mother was sad but a bit liberating. Too bad the rest of the year fell apart thanks to ... stupidity ... selfishness ... apathy ... I guess a combination of all of those. Overall, 2024 was not a really good year for me.
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| Winston Churchill. |
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| Westminster Abbey. |
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| Buckingham Palace from the mall. |
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| Tower Bridge over the Thames. |
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| One of the Tower of London Ravens striking a pose. |
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| Inside the Globe Theater. |
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| The London Eye. |
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| The Parliament building and the Elizabeth Tower (home of the Big Ben bells) seen from the Eye. |
Day Eighteen - 29 September
We went to the Edinburgh train station the 'correct' way which was a heck of a lot easier. Naturally going down the steps was easier than up. We caught a train to Glasgow which was crowded (standing room only) but fortunately it was only thirty to forty minutes long.
The train station in Glasgow was literally next door to our hotel so we simply walked next door and checked into our room. The hotel was on George Square the central square of the city. The square is full of statues and a cenotaph at one end commemorating World War I veterans.
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| The Cenotaph. |
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| The Duke and his crown. |
We took the elevator to the top floor and worked our way down. The Wife and I noted that most of the exhibits were more about the GoMA building and its history more than it was about modern art.
This evening we went to the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Andrew for Mass. Afterwards we had difficulty finding a place to eat. Our first choice was closed due to kitchen issues. Their suggested alternative was too crowded and rowdy. We ended up in the same pub where we'd had lunch even though it was crowded too.
Day Nineteen - 30 September
We ate breakfast in our hotel. They had a nice enough spread but their pancake machine was out of order - a tragedy.
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| Saint Mungo mural. |
Our guide showed up and explained the slave trader connection with the buildings surrounding the square. She pointed out the unicorn on one building - the official animal of Scotland. The Unicorn is said to be the only animal who could beat a lin in a fight (The British animal is the lion so lots of snark there) we walked through the city seeing religious inspired modern murals, the Glasgow Cathedral (with a view of the Glasgow Necropolis), and various old buildings demonstrating the history of the city. We even saw the Doctor's TARDIS. If we'd had time touring the Necropolis might have been interesting - next time.
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| The Glasgow Cathedral. |
When we arrived in Glasgow we really didn't have a long list, or any list at all really, so we wondered what we would do with our two days here. After our walking tour I think we could have spent another day (or at least had spent the time we had a little better). Glasgow wasn't as interesting as Edinburg but there is still a lot of stuff to see if you know where to look.
Tomorrow we would be heading to our last destination, London.
Pictures can be found in my 2024-09 Great Britain Google Photos album.Day Fifteen - 26 September
It was raining when our friends dropped us off at the Berwick-upon-Tweed train station. We walked in about five minutes to eight and were on a train to Edinburgh by 8:00am. Just over thirty minutes later we were in Edinburgh. The hotel was not far from the train station but, for those not familiar, Edinburgh is a multilevel city. The train station was on the lower level and the hotel on the Royal Mile was on the upper. Google maps was ... confused. We walked around in the rain looking for the stairs up to the upper level. I eventually found a long staircase that took us up - it was not the right one. It got us up but it was not the nearest to our hotel. I eventually got my bearings and we reached our hotel. My roundabout way of getting to our hotel added a couple blocks to our wet walk.
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| The Holyroodhouse. |
The Uber dropped us off at the Malt Shovel Inn where we were going to have lunch. It wasn't open yet so we explored Cockburn street with it's restaurants and shops. We bought some souvenirs and sweatshirts (as the weather was a bit colder in Edinburgh than my clothes selection could handle). We returned to the Malt Shovel and had lunch. This is where the Wife started her haggis tour. She would have haggis nearly every meal, in one form or another, for the rest of our stay in Scotland.
We spent the rest of the day staying out of the rain venturing out only for food.
Day Sixteen - 27 September
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| Dean Village. |
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| Edinburgh Castle. |
It was a very busy day full of history.
Day Seventeen - 28 September
Our last day in Edinburgh was light activity-wise. We had an Underground Vaults tour in the morning. It was a late addition as most of these tours had a ghost tour angle that we really didn't care for but we had the time so ... The tour wasn't that bad. The vaults were originally used for restaurant/pub storage. They eventually were occupied by the poor, workers, or students. There were ghost stories naturally but, in general, the tour was interesting.
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| View of the city from Edinburgh Castle. |
We stopped for lunch at the Conan Doyle Pub close to Sir Conan Doyle's birthplace.
I liked Edinburgh. There was a lot of history and the multilevel nature of the city gave it interest. It was odd crossing a bridge and looking down to see another house lined street running underneath. We spent three days there but you could spend a week or more exploring this interesting city.
Next ... on to Glasgow.
Pictures can be found in my 2024-09 Great Britain Google Photos album.Day Thirteen - 24 September
We taxied to the Oxford train station. When we couldn't find our train on the schedule we asked a station employee who told us "that train hasn't run all week." He provided an alternate train route that would get us to Berwick-upon-Tweed an hour after our original scheduled arrival. Our arrival time was important as we were going to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne.
The Holy Island of Lindisfarne is only accessible by a causeway that submerges during high tide. You have to make sure you arrive at low tide so you can get across (apparently people get stuck on the causeway during high tide often). I used an online booking site to reserve a taxi from Berwick-upon-Tweed to the Holy Island. A couple trains later and we arrived in Berwick-upon-Tweed. We waited past the time for the taxi until I gave up and called the taxi company directly. They had no record of our reservation and had never heard of the online taxi booking site - crap. They sent over a taxi and we headed for the Holy Island. I figured the online site was a scam so, as we drove, I tried to see if I could cancel the charge to our credit card. The charge was still pending so I couldn't contest it yet but, twenty minutes later, a credit appeared in our account. I was relieved to see the site was not a scam and they had refunded my charge without being prompted. Whew.
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| Our hotel on the Holy Island. |
The only industry/businesses on the island are pubs, a few small hotels, fishing, and tourism - no grocery stores or other businesses you find in most towns. Everyone had to leave the island to get things (or have things delivered). This made the town feel cozy and old. It had a magical atmosphere at times, especially when all the day tourists had gone.
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| The remains of the Lindisfarne Abbey (right) and the church of Saint Mary the Virgin (left) from a nearby ridge. |
We visited the abbey and church before climbing up a short ridge where you had a great view of the abbey complex, the north sea, and the Lindisfarne castle.
This evening we ate as a small pub with good food.
Day Fourteen - 25 September
The second thing to see/do on the Holy Island is bird watching. The entire island is part of the National Trust and there are trails and bird sanctuaries throughout the island.
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| The bay at low tide. |
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| The grassy hike along the island coast. |
We visited the castle gardens - once vegetable gardens - and admired the late summer flowers and the buzzing bees.
We had lunch in a cafe before we split with our friends. The Wife and I went back to the Abbey to visit the museum and go into the abbey ruins.
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| The Lindisfarne Castle as seen from the Abbey grounds. |
We decided to get up early enough the next morning to beat the end of the next low tide. This would give our friends a five or six hour head start on their drive home and we would take an earlier train to our next destination: nearby Scotland.
Pictures can be found in my 2024-09 Great Britain Google Photos album.Day Eleven - 22 September
We'd hoped to get out of Wrexham early but there were no good train connections to our next destination, Stratford-upon-Avon, until noon. This would get us in too late for the afternoon walking tours.
| Holy Trinity church where Shakespeare is buried. |
Day Twelve - 23 September
| Shakespeare. |
We picked up our bags and took an Uber to the train station. From there we took a couple trains to Oxford. Like in Stratford-upon-Avon our hotel was out of the way in an old estate. It was too late to do anything and it was pouring rain - we had to haul our bags through the rain to a second building (with many stairs). We ate dinner in the hotel and decided that any tour of Oxford was out of the question. We just didn't have the time. Next time.
The next day we would be heading to a place many have not heard of and it turned out to be a magical place. We would also be meeting with our friends from Stubbington again which made it all the better.
Pictures can be found in my 2024-09 Great Britain Google Photos album.Day Nine - 20 September
Today was going to be our most complex travel schedule involving Uber, taxis, three trains, and our first tube ride. The Uber picked us up outside Saint James Church in Cooling and dropped us at the Chatham train station. Here the Wife did her good deed of the day by giving some money to a lady you was trying to get her son to school. The guard at the turnstile was being a raging dickhead. The lady got her young son on the train and was kind enough to give us the change she got back after buying the ticket. (I admit I thought she was scamming but the return of the change proved me wrong.)
The first train took us to London. From there we had to take the tube to another station. It took me awhile to figure out the tube map (they really needed an information person there). We got on the tube with our massive luggage and made the one stop trip to the next station without issue. Our second and third trains went without a hitch and we took a taxi from the Wrexham train station to our hotel.
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| Wrexham Mural from TV. |
For those who are not acquainted with Wrexham Futball, you should try to watch "Welcome to Wrexham" to catch up. We stopped at the Turf Pub next to the Racecourse stadium for a pint and diet coke. The Wife got a picture with the pub owner who has appeared in the show. They seemed to be filming something for the upcoming season here. Unfortunately the Wife or I are probably not in the background. From the pub we walked to a mural seen in the show before returning to our hotel.
Day Ten - 21 September
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| Miner's lamp. |
We walked to the stadium and went to the new Fan Zone that was recently added and was included with our tickets. We got some drinks, listened to some music, and chatted with the locals. One guy, a retired miner from Wrexham, was carrying a miners lamp. Turns out today was the day before the ninetieth anniversary of the Gresford mining disaster. The wife was checking out the line to the special appearances (players would show up to get pictures taken). While she was gone I was chatting with the miner. He asked where I was from and what was my Wife's name and stuff like that. When the wife came back he said hello to her by name and asked about Nebraska. The Wife was all WTF?!? He was a funny guy and everyone we met in Wrexham were friendly.
The Futball match was fun. The wrexham fans are a rowdy bunch and songs were sung throughout the entire match. Wrexham won 2-1. In the last fifteen minutes of the game it started to rain. During the last minute or two the skies opened up. The Wife and I had our raincoats on as we walked back to our hotel through what we would call 'a gully washer' back home. Up until now we'd had near perfect weather. This rain would mark a change in our weather luck.
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| The first goal of the day - Wrexham of course. |
Day Seven (cont.) - 18 September
We arrived in Rochester and taxied to our hotel the Ship and Trades in nearby Chatham. The fifteen room hotel sits on the waterfront with views of the marina. The rooms are above a pub with outdoor seating. It was a very nice setting. We spent time outside eating, drinking, and, after talking to the front desk staff about transportation options, arranging our transportation for the next couple of days - Rochester/Chatham have Uber.
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| The view out our window at the Ship and Trades. |
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| Rochester Cathedral. |
We walked from the cathedral to Rochester castle located on a hill overlooking the cathedral and city. The castle is hollow, the wooden floors between levels long gone. We climbed the stairs to each level until we reached the top. We admired the view before returning down the stairs and exited through the gift shop.
We took a taxi back to the Ship and Trades where we checked out and had some drinks at the pub. An Uber picked us up and took us to the nearby town of Cooling. We'd expected it to be a long drive out in the country but, while it felt like it was out in the middle of nowhere, it turned out to be a fifteen minute Uber drive. We were dropped off at the Saint James church where we would be spending the night. In the graveyard surrounding the church there is a cluster of children's graves. This church and these graves were one of the inspirations for Charles Dickens' "Great Expectations".
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| Inside the Rochester castle. |
I expected someone to meet us but we were alone when we arrived. There was an outhouse next to the church entrance. We used the code from an email to open the outhouse and another code to retrieve the church key from a lockbox inside. We put our bags in the church next to the camp cots we would sleep on, locked the door with the key (the key was big enough to be a deadly weapon), and walked the block or so to the village pub - the Horseshoe and Castle.
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| Saint James Church, Cooling, Kent, UK. |
We returned to the church and explored it. The walls of the vestry were covered in shells, the symbol of Saint James (and on the Camino). There was an organ but it could not be played. We locked ourselves in and we went to bed expecting it to be cold overnight and it was chilly but we brought what we needed to keep warm (our sleeping bag liners and warm clothes). I slept surprisingly well.
The next morning our Uber came and picked us up and dropped us at the train station. Are you ready for some Futball?!?
Pictures can be found in my 2024-09 Great Britain Google Photos album.Day Five - 16 September
Our friends Nk and Jn dropped us off at the train station not far from their home and we headed east to Brighton. We took a cab from the train station to our harbor front hotel where the Social Democratic party was holding some sort of get together.
We walked to a restaurant where we met with another friend who we'd met on the Camino in 2023. Ea was one of the first people we met at the start of our Camino but, since she had a deadline, ended up walking a bit faster than us and, unlike the Wife and I, had finished the whole thing. That's a good thing for her since she didn't miss her boyfriend's proposal in front of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Still, in the few days from our first albergue we'd stayed at to just before Puente La Reina, we still managed to overlap our stages with hers and a friendship was formed. That's what it's like on the Camino - friendships form quickly.
We had a great lunch and reminisced about the Camino. Ea told us she felt like her Camino wasn't finished. This is interesting since mine felt incomplete after my first one too. I told her about how I'd felt and how my second Camino had finally brought some closure to me. We invited her (and her now fiance) to join us next year when the Wife and I went back to continue out Camino. She said she would consider it.
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| The Brighton Royal Pavilion. |
We visited the opulent Pavilion which was built for George IV when he was only a prince. It was opulent like many of the royal residences we would visit around Britain.
Day Six - 17 September
We left Brighton on the train and headed for Dover. Our original plan was to stop along the way in Canterbury to visit the cathedral but we couldn't figure out what to do with our luggage (it was heavy with three weeks worth of clothes). 911 has put a damper on lockers in train stations and the like. Instead we went straight to Dover.
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| The white cliffs of Dover. |
Back at the gift shop I tried to call a taxi but my phone thought I was in France and I couldn't understand the error message I was getting. Fortunately the person at the gift shop counter helped us by making the call for us.
Day Seven - 18 September
There was only one place else in Dover to see - the Dover Castle. After considering our options we decided to take another crack at Canterbury first. We left our bags at the hotel and took the train to Canterbury.
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| Inside the Canterbury Cathedral. |
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| The Dover castle ... maybe next time. |
Our next destination was Rochester. Not far from there we would be doing something relatively strange. We would be Champing.
Pictures can be found in my 2024-09 Great Britain Google Photos album.