2025 Balkan Travels - Albania

Travel Day:

We flew into Tirana, Albania and were picked up by our guide.  For the next ten days or so we would be on a tour with nine other guests, a tour guide, and a driver.  Like in Athens we got to the hotel early so we went looking for an ATM to get cash, had some drinks, and found an open air market to explore to kill time.  At one cafe we talked to a couple who had lived in the US for a while before returning to the Wife's native Albania.  They were very very complimentary of Albania and the people.

We checked into our room early and settled into our room.  The mayor of New York, Adams, was staying at the hotel ... or at least we assumed he was.  This was possibly one of the nicest and newer hotels in Tirana.

One of the views out of hotel windows (This is zoomed in, it was not this crowded).

In the evening our guide picked us up along with the other guests and we walked a couple blocks to a nice restaurant for our welcome dinner.  The dinner was a preview of what was to come.  Course after course of delicious food.  Half way through everyone was stuffed and the courses kept coming.  By the end of the evening I was sure they were trying to kill us by sheer volume of food.

The other guests – three couples, two sisters, and a single woman – were all pleasant and fun to talk to.  There would be only minor friction here and there throughout the ten-day tour.

Shkodra, Rozafa Castle, and Lezhë:

We got on our comfy bus and we headed to northern Albania.  The first stop was a factory where they make Venetian masks.  The company has been supplying the masks to Venice and other carnival locations since the late nineties.  The owner took us on a tour of the factory where the masks are made by hand in an assembly line fashion.  The masks were amazing, intricate, and beautiful.  We then went through the gallery which is an explosion of color.  I bought a small mask for my small collection of masks.

Venetian Masks made in Albania.

Next we went to the Rozafa Castle overlooking historic Shkodër.  The castle was interesting and the views of the two rivers and the city were incredible.

Our next stop was lunch at an organic farm-to-table restaurant in the countryside near Lezhë.  Again, they continued to try to kill us with abundance.  The multiple courses of food were fresh, plentiful, and delicious.  We commented about the quantity of food and I think our guide toned it down for the rest of the tour – we were grateful.

Part of Rozafa Castle in Shkodra and the Albanian flag.

We went out for dinner that night for yet another incredible meal.  Our tour company usually only supplies some special meals but this tour provided three meals a day and, frankly, this reduced the stress of having to find food on your own.

Krujë and Tirana:

We got on our trusty bus and we drove south to the city of Krujë.  Here we visited  Dervish monastery.  The guide translated as guests asked the caretaker questions about the monastery and religion.  The caretaker and our guide were surprised by the number and quality of our questions.  Yay us.

We visited a restored two hundred year old Ottoman era home where our very funny, and punny, local guide gave us an interesting tour bringing the home alive with culture and history.

A painting in the Ottoman house.

We had lunch not far from the monastery at another incredible restaurant.  The head chef, a stern woman, chewed out the staff often while we ate our excellent meal.  I'm sure this was just part of the kitchen's normal banter.

After our meal we had time to do some shopping in the town's bazaar.  We ended up with some stuff including an Albanian futball jersey for me. The Wife and I got a little lost in the bazaar but we managed to find the bus and the rest of the group.

A pillbox bunker.

We returned to Tirana and had a short walking tour of the city seeing the pillbox bunkers that were built by the paranoid former communist government.  We passed the local NATO offices and visited various historical parks and buildings of the communist era and the modern Tirana.

We took the bus to a restaurant for dinner and we walked back to the hotel after a very satisfying dinner.

Durrës, Ardenica Monastery, and Apollonia:

Ardenica Monastery.

After using Tirana as our base for the last few days, we checked out and took our bus to Durrës, a bustling port city where we visited an excavated Roman amphitheater.

From there we headed inland and visited the Ardenica Monastery with its thirteenth century frescoes and the beautiful views from its hilltop location.

After the monastery we had a very short drive to another farm/vineyard/restaurant for lunch.  From the veranda of the restaurant, where we ate,  you could see the Adriatic.

The next stop was the ruins of Apollonia.  The head archeologist of the site gave us the tour.  He was knowledgeable and funny as we toured the ruins.  The tour ended at another monastery and museum which we explored on our own.

The government building in Apollonia.

The day ended in our boutique hotel in the city of Gjirokastra.

Gjirokastra:

Gjirokastra Fortress.

We joined a local guide in Gjirokastra who took us on a walking tour of a poet's home and a restored private home.  We toured the house followed by the house's resident cats, they liked to jump on our lap every time you sat down.  The private home was amazing and we met the current owners of the house, who talked about the experience of people before, during, and after the communist era in Albania.  It was very interesting.

We took taxis up to the fortress that overlooked Gjirokastra.  From there our local guide took us through the military museum and prison.  Outside our guide sang us a folk song.  She had an amazing voice.

That night we had dinner at a restaurant perched on the ridge overlooking Gjirokastra.  As we ate we were serenaded by men in native costume singing Iso Polifonia.  The food was good and the singing was interesting and unique.  We decided the band name should be the Pom Pom Funcles (they had little pom poms on their shoes and they all looked like someones fun uncle – the link goes to a video the Wife took).

At this point we pointed out that our last three meals had been chicken.  The meals on this tour all had set menus.  Our guide apologized at the oversight.  This was the only issue I had with the guide except maybe for his dependency on ChatGPT for some historical information.

To The Border:

We left Gjirokastra on the first of two long driving days.  We reached the border with Greece.  The remainder of the day will be documented in the next post as we re-enter Greece and visit the monasteries of Meteora.

Pictures can be found in my 2025-10 Albania Google Photos album.