Guatemala 2025 - Days Eleven And Twelve - One Good ... One Not So Much

Thursday - 02/20 - One good day.

We had breakfast at the hotel and caught a boat to the mainland.  Today we would go to Quiriguá, a Mayan site known for its carved stela.  Originally we would have visited Quiriguá on our way from Copán to Rio Dulce but ... things happened so we made the roughly hour and a half trip from Rio Dulce.

A carved altar at Quiriguá.

It was a really warm day when we got to Quiriguá.  We started in the small but well marked museum.  Our 'guide' tried to explain things but we pretty much just read the signs instead of listening to his broken English.

A procession of leafcutter ants.

A Quiriguá Stele.

After the museum we walked through the ceremonial, commercial, and royal Mayan complex.  The highlights were the stela.  The whole complex is rather small - considered medium sized for a Mayan community - but it was interesting.  We also managed to see a little wildlife, namely iguanas and leafcutter ants (who paraded across the path with their bannerlike leaf fragments held high.

We bought some items at the tiendas outside the museum before heading back to Rio Dulce.  Here we stopped at the castle of San Felipe de Lara.  The Spanish fort is situated at the narrows where the Rio Dulce connects to lake Izabal.  The fort was used to stop pirates sailing in from the Caribbean into the lake but the fort was also a target for the pirates as well.  It was relatively small but it was pretty cool.  Definitely worth the visit.

The canons of fort San Felipe de Lara.

After a very satisfying day we returned to our hotel for the evening.

Friday - 02/21 - Why are we doing this?

A parting photo of the hotel bungalows.

Today we were scheduled to take a boat right along the Rio Dulce from the city of Rio Dulce to Livingston.  Along the way we would see a lot of nature, wildlife, and get a view of the fort from the water side.  I was really looking forward to this but, five minutes out from the hotel, the rain began to fall and the Wife and I had to retreat under a large black plastic sheet to keep ourselves dry.  It came down pretty hard.  The water was a little rough and now I know what it's like to be in a garbage bag, in the rain, while being spanked - something I really didn't need to know.  I peeked out from under our plastic covering and saw several things that, on a rainless day would have made incredible pictures (for example, five cormorants skimming the water with reeds in the background - looked awesome) but it was not rainless and my camera does not like water.

We arrived in Livingston, a town with a mixed Mayan, Afro-Caribbean, and Latino population.  It was still raining and we had our umbrellas (our unprepared 'guide' did not have an umbrella or any rain protection at all).  We walked up the main street looking at ... nothing in particular.  After a while we stopped at a hotel to use the facilities and our 'guide' suggested getting drinks at the bar.  The Wife and I looked at him like he was crazy.  We asked if there was anything in Livingston we should see and he said no (!?!).  At this point we asked to go back to the boat.

Even the Livingston sign looked tired and weary.

We got back in the boat and covered up against the rain.  The 'guide' and the boat captain tried to point things out to us but we both had had enough.  We remained covered through most of the return trip even when they tried to show us birds and iguanas on various islands while it continued to rain.  They suggested going to see the fort from the water and we said no.  The rain had washed away any enthusiasm we had left.

The fact is, any guide with any experience would have looked at the weather forecast and would have canceled this boat ride.  It was a total waste of time.  If the weather would have been good I know I would have thoroughly enjoyed it, it would have been a highlight of the trip, and I would have had dozens of awesome pictures to post but the weather sucked.  Our 'guide', once again, had no plan B and hadn't even checked to see if we wanted to continue with the bad weather coming.  Very disappointed.

Lake Petén Itzá through the jungle from our hotel balcony.

We picked up our bags and went back to the mainland where our 'guide' handed us off to another driver who would take us to Flores and Tikal.  The drive was three hours and it was a nice ride.  Our driver spoke better English and the hours passed by quickly.  We arrived at our hotel on the shore of lake Petén Itzá.  The view from our room looked out through the jungle to the lake.

Tomorrow we would be going to Tikal and hopefully we would have a better last couple days in Guatemala.

Pictures can be found in my 2025-02 Guatemala Google Photos album.