Book: Richard J. Evens' "The Coming Of The Third Reich"

For my fifth book, I returned to non-fiction.  This e-book was given to me by a gamer friend back in February 2022.  I wanted to read it but I kept putting it off for one reason or another.  Given current world events, I finally decided to read Richard J. Evans' "The Coming of the Third Reich".

"The Coming of the Third Reich" is the first of a three-book series on the rise and fall of the German Nazi Party.  It covers the period from the late 1800s to 1933, when Hitler became Reich Chancellor.  The second book covers 1933 to 1939 and the third book covers World War II and the end of the Nazi party.

I'd known a lot about this history for a while.  Back in the 1980s, when I was in college, I read William L. Shirer's "The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich".  Evans' book goes into more detail and is an easier read than Shirer's book.

Reading this book while watching what has happened in the past thirty-five years or so is kinda scary.  The parallels, especially during the last one hundred days of the current administration, are both creepy and quite foreboding.  An example of history rhyming as Mark Twain might have said.

I gave this book four stars out of five on Goodreads.  I have the second book in my e-book library.  I expect to read it sometime this year, and I wouldn't be surprised if more parallels reveal themselves.

A New Magnet Display Wall

As many of you may know, the Wife and I collect travel magnets wherever we go.  I photograph each one and you can see them in the Travel Magnets tab at the top of Homer's Travels.  There are currently seven hundred and three magnets.  I haven't photographed the magnets from our Great Britain or our Guatemala trips yet – forty-nine and eighteen respectively.  So, adding them all up, we will have Seven hundred and seventy travel magnets.  Not surprisingly, we were running out of display space for them all.

Last week, I started putting together a new magnet display wall in the She-Shed.  I am a master procrastinator capable of taking two hours of work and stretching it out to five days.

On Monday, the first day, I cleaned the oil off the two-by-four-foot metal sheets on the first day.

On  Tuesday, I attached nine command strips – theoretically capable of holding forty-five pounds – to each of the two-by-four-foot sheets and put them on the wall.  Even though each sheet only weighed twenty-four pounds (plus the weight of the magnets) I was paranoid, so I rested the bottom edge of the sheets on the top of the wainscoting to take some of the weight.

On Thursday I cleaned the oil off the four six-inch-by-four-foot sheets that would go across the top.

On Friday I attached the command strips to the small sheets and put them on the wall.

The new She-Shed magnet display wall with most of our international magnets.

The Wife put the magnets up on Friday.  She moved the international magnets to the She-Shed.  The American magnets are staying upstairs on the original two display panels.  We were both surprised that we had enough to fill the upstairs panels.

We now have 21 ft² for domestic magnets and 36 ft² for international magnets.  In our den I have another 4 ft² with all the magnets from the Camino, Appalachian Trail, and a few places I visited without the Wife.  We now have room to grow ... and more places to go.

Weekly Ephemera #140

I hope everyone had a happy Easter.  We spent the day at the Wife's niece's place with family.

• I put up the new magnet display.  I will talk more about it later this week in another post.
• It's been a dry winter and early spring, so we turned on the sprinklers earlier than in the past.  I also spread weed and feed a month earlier than I normally do.
• On Wednesday our roofers came in and repaired the hail damage from last summer.  A screen guy came by to take three of our window screens to repair the tears.  New gutters were put in on Friday.  The only thing we are waiting on is the window wrap repairs which will probably happen sometime in the next two weeks.
  
  We watched as bad weather and hail blew through the next day. Fortunately we only got rain and wind.  North of us saw softball sized hail stones.  Dodged a bullet there.
• Our air conditioner was inspected on Thursday as well.  Everything checked out.  The day before, the roofers had noted that the chimney for the furnace and water heater was severely corroded.  Our HVAC people will likely have to replace it.  We are waiting for an estimator to come by.
• On Thursday I had a follow up ultrasound of my kidney.  Everything looked good (yay).
• I hiked once this week.  On Monday, I didn't feel like walking, so I worked on the magnet wall. Friday was cold and windy, so I skipped my walk to finish the magnet wall.  My one walk was 8.6 miles (13.9 km).  I probably needed to rest my legs a bit but next week I need to get back at it.
• I finished "Daredevil: Born Again".  I liked it.  It was a more low key Marvel show with more intrigue and less fighting.  I also watched "A Quiet Place: Day One".  I liked the original two movies and I enjoyed this one as well.  It sketched in a few plot points left blank by the other movies.
• I started planning out the stages for the Wife's Camino.  It may take us longer to finish than I expected.  I planned out shorter stages which lets us hit more interesting places but adds to the length of the walk.  These plans, naturally, will be subject to change.  Fortunately I paid a little extra for airline tickets that can be changed.

Weekly Ephemera #139

• This week we had our sprinkler service turn on/adjust our in-ground automatic sprinkler system.  Normally I would just turn it on myself but there were a few sprinkler heads that I wasn't sure how to adjust.  Watching the technician I realized I could have done it myself.  This was the first and last time I will pay someone to adjust my sprinkler system.  They charged way too much – over double what the service was worth in my opinion.  Another expensive lesson learned.
• Spring is solidly here.  The AC has been turned on and probably will stay on until the fall.  This week we will have it inspected to make sure everything is working properly.
• We received some sheet metal that will become our new travel magnet display.  The metal will cover part of a basement wall in the She-Shed.   We will have another thirty-six square feet of display space soon.  Not sure exactly when as I have been in a major procrastination mode lately.  I'm going to try to get it done sometimes this week.  It really shouldn't take much time to put up, but my brain is still dreading it.  Heck, I still haven't photographed our magnets from our Great Britain trip last September.  I am a master procrastinator.
• I walked three times this week for a total of 26.4 miles (42.5 km).  Each time I walk I go a different route.  I think I've done most of my longer routes so this week I'll have to start repeating.
• We started watching the final season of "The Handmaid's Tale".  That show hits too close to home.  We are balancing that out by watching the latest season of "The Great American Baking Show".

The Beginnings Of An Escape Plan

Ever since the current administration was (re)elected, we have wondered what we would do if the worst-case scenario played out.  The Wife was adamant that we needed to have at least a concept of a plan.  I was hesitant, thinking we should stick it out.  I felt that leaving the country would be wrong when so many people do not have the luxury of that option.  The last eleven weeks, especially the last one, have shifted my way of thinking.  I still think we should stay, but I am now a little more amenable to making a contingency plan.

First of all, we can't stay in America so we have to consider where we would go.  During the COVID pandemic the Wife put in the time and paperwork to become a citizen of Luxembourg through her ancestral connections.  This means she, as a European Union (EU) citizen, can live anywhere in the EU.  I, on the other hand, am not an EU citizen but, As I am married to an EU citizen, I can become a permanent resident of Luxembourg, similar to having an American green card.  Residency allows me to live in Luxembourg indefinitely, but I cannot move to other EU nations.  I would still be restricted to 90 to 180 days, depending on the country's rules, just like any tourist.

I still need to investigate how to transfer our American retirement funds to EU/non-American financial institutions. I don't think there is a way to do this without incurring a large tax bill. Currently, this isn't an issue as the money can stay in America. However, if things really go all authoritarian, I could see restrictions on moving funds out of the country becoming a problem.  Until then, I have moved all our stock holdings to cash to protect our assets.

There is still a lot more to plan but let's hope this stays a hypothetical plan that never needs to be exercised.

Weekly Ephemera #138

• Where the heck did April come from, and what did it do with March?!?
• We went to see Bob Dylan and the Band on April Fool's day and boy howdy did I feel like a fool for going.
• I walked three times this cloudy, gloomy, and windy week.   I walked 24.7 miles (39.7 km), which was close to my goal.  Next week, barring any unforeseen distraction, I will try to go more miles.
• Thursday and part of Friday, I watched the tariffs cluster-F demolish the growing economy this administration inherited.  Earlier today I put in sell orders for all my stock investments.  This decision drove me crazy – too many what-ifs and WTFs.  The uncertainty in the world, and the economy, is making me feel very uncomfortable.  Going to all cash and 'safe' investments will help me rest a little better at night ... if the FOMO doesn't kill me first.

Music: Bob Dylan And The Band At The Orpheum

On Tuesday the Wife and I went to see Bob Dylan and the Band perform at my favorite venue, the Orpheum in Omaha.  I can't say I had a great time.

The first thing that was new was increased security at the Orpheum.  I assume the security, aimed at preventing the use of phones and cameras, was most likely a Dylan requirement and not a venue requirement.  No other concerts there have restricted phone use.  The security process consisted of the following:

• As we entered we showed our ticket (on our phone only, no printouts allowed) to a couple of greeters who would write down the section, row, and seat number on a post-it and gave it to us.
• Next you showed your ticket on your phone to the ticket taker who scanned the QR code.
• Next you gave your phone to another person who locked it in a bag and returned it to you.  The Yondr bag, larger than the phone, no longer fit in your pocket and had to be carried in your hand.
• You showed the post-it to the ushers who took you to your seat.

During the hour or so we waited for the show to start (no phone - no clock - no idea how long we waited) we watched multiple people being questioned if they were in the correct seat.  Turns out some of the greeters weren't putting 'balcony' on some of the post-its.  The only way to clear this up was to go out to the lobby so that their phones could be unlocked to verify their seats.  This continued after the performance started as late arrivers came in and found their seats occupied.  Not a very smooth process.

The performance itself was ... not what I expected.  There was no warm up band so Dylan came out with his band and started performing.  I expected not to understand the lyrics - Dylan is known for his unique vocal style - but I didn't expect to not understand eighty to ninety percent of what he was singing.  I can confidently say I did not know a single one of the songs he performed.  I found this unusual as I am familiar with some of his stuff.  You would expect he would at least sing one familiar song for the more casual Dylan listeners in the audience.  He did not.

I liked his band.  They would start playing and I would be getting into it then Dylan would start playing the piano, his instrument of choice during this concert.  His playing was discordant and often distracting.  His singing did not help.  I did like when he played the harmonica.  Dylan is eighty-three so some of this may just be his age.  I don't know.

One odd thing is his lack of interaction with the audience.  He did introduce the band members (the only words I recognized were guitar, bass, and drums - the names seemed garbled) but he never spoke to the audience.  No 'Hello Omaha', no 'Thanks for being here', no acknowledgement at all.  The show ended without an encore.

I obviously didn't enjoy Bob Dylan.  I feel like it was a waste for me to be there.  I feel like I took a seat away from someone who would have really appreciated Dylan.  The Wife enjoyed it more than I did.  She did recognize one of the songs but not until the song was almost over.

Guatemala 2025 - Days Thirteen And Fourteen - Ending On A Good Note

Saturday - 02/22 - Tikal

Saturday morning we got up, ate breakfast, and watched the oddball attendees of the Tikal Convergence who were staying at our hotel.  The people attending were shamans, shaman wanna bes, and shaman cosplayers.  The colorful costumes and flowing fabric was an overload for the senses and common sense.

A ceiba tree.

Our bus picked us up and took us to Tikal national park, home of one of the larger Mayan complexes.  I'd been there twice before back in the 70s.  Things had changed a bit.  It is better organized and accessibility to the temples has been improved.

Our tour guide spoke great English and we were in a small group.  We entered the park and walked past the enormous ceiba trees to the main temple complex.

It felt a bit smaller than I remember but I was a bit smaller back then so everything felt bigger.  Our guide gave us time to wander around the two main temples and the adjacent structures.  Since I was here last they'd built a wooden staircase and platform on one of the temples to make it easier to climb.  It started showering while we were there but it didn't interfere with us enjoying the temples.

The temple complex seen from the top of one of the temples.

We met back up with the guide and we visited other temples that were only partially uncovered including one that gave you a panoramic view of the jungle and the tops of temples.  All in all the tour was very good and it was a great ending to our Guatemala trip.  Tikal was just as magnificent as I remembered it.

The top of the jungle with several temples poking above the treetops.

We stopped for lunch in the park before heading out through the gift shop.  The bus dropped us off at the airport.  I remember it just being a grass strip but it is now an international airport.

We returned to Guatemala City and spent our last night in Guatemala.

Sunday - 02/23 - Returning Home

We had a relaxing morning at the hotel before going to the airport for our afternoon flight home.  The return was uneventful.

Epilogue

I was somewhat concerned about visiting the country where I'd grown up.  My memories of this place were a messy amalgamation of good and bad.   My high school years were not the best for me.  I worried I would sink into a gloomy place but that never happened.  I found myself enjoying return to my old haunts even if I couldn't visit my old house.

Things change and a lot has changed in Guatemala.  Most of the changes, I suspect, are more a result of foggy memory than actual change.  The City definitely was more built up but the countryside, besides the fast food signs, was what I remembered.  The roads were better and towns had grown.  The influence of tourism, especially in the western Mayan Highlands, was more pronounced.

The new parts, for me, were disappointing.  The eastern part of the country still hasn't been prepared for foreign tourism yet.  As a result, our experience during our second week was a bit lackluster.  It was also unfortunate, and beyond anyone's control, that the rain in Rio Dulce ruined what could have been a highlight of the trip.

The Wife dragged me kicking and screaming back to the country of my teenage years and I am very grateful she did.

Pictures can be found in my 2025-02 Guatemala Google Photos album.

Weekly Ephemera #137

A slow week here in the Homer's Travels household:

• I walked three times this week.  They were relatively short but I am working my way back up to longer distances after the long break I had.  I managed to walk 20.75 miles (33.4 km).
• On Friday we turned on the air conditioner for the day because we hit a high of 81℉ (27℃).  On Friday night the heat was switched back on as the week ahead will be a more chilly seasonal temperature.  Saturday it rained and was gloomy all day but, with the warmer temperatures and the wet weather, things are starting to green up, another sign of Spring.
• I started watching "Daredevil: Born Again" this week.  It has the same cast as the Netflix Daredevil series which makes me happy.  I liked the original series and this one, so far, is just as good.

Guatemala 2025 - Days Eleven And Twelve - One Good ... One Not So Much

Thursday - 02/20 - One good day.

We had breakfast at the hotel and caught a boat to the mainland.  Today we would go to Quiriguá, a Mayan site known for its carved stela.  Originally we would have visited Quiriguá on our way from Copán to Rio Dulce but ... things happened so we made the roughly hour and a half trip from Rio Dulce.

A carved altar at Quiriguá.

It was a really warm day when we got to Quiriguá.  We started in the small but well marked museum.  Our 'guide' tried to explain things but we pretty much just read the signs instead of listening to his broken English.

A procession of leafcutter ants.

A Quiriguá Stele.

After the museum we walked through the ceremonial, commercial, and royal Mayan complex.  The highlights were the stela.  The whole complex is rather small - considered medium sized for a Mayan community - but it was interesting.  We also managed to see a little wildlife, namely iguanas and leafcutter ants (who paraded across the path with their bannerlike leaf fragments held high.

We bought some items at the tiendas outside the museum before heading back to Rio Dulce.  Here we stopped at the castle of San Felipe de Lara.  The Spanish fort is situated at the narrows where the Rio Dulce connects to lake Izabal.  The fort was used to stop pirates sailing in from the Caribbean into the lake but the fort was also a target for the pirates as well.  It was relatively small but it was pretty cool.  Definitely worth the visit.

The canons of fort San Felipe de Lara.

After a very satisfying day we returned to our hotel for the evening.

Friday - 02/21 - Why are we doing this?

A parting photo of the hotel bungalows.

Today we were scheduled to take a boat right along the Rio Dulce from the city of Rio Dulce to Livingston.  Along the way we would see a lot of nature, wildlife, and get a view of the fort from the water side.  I was really looking forward to this but, five minutes out from the hotel, the rain began to fall and the Wife and I had to retreat under a large black plastic sheet to keep ourselves dry.  It came down pretty hard.  The water was a little rough and now I know what it's like to be in a garbage bag, in the rain, while being spanked - something I really didn't need to know.  I peeked out from under our plastic covering and saw several things that, on a rainless day would have made incredible pictures (for example, five cormorants skimming the water with reeds in the background - looked awesome) but it was not rainless and my camera does not like water.

We arrived in Livingston, a town with a mixed Mayan, Afro-Caribbean, and Latino population.  It was still raining and we had our umbrellas (our unprepared 'guide' did not have an umbrella or any rain protection at all).  We walked up the main street looking at ... nothing in particular.  After a while we stopped at a hotel to use the facilities and our 'guide' suggested getting drinks at the bar.  The Wife and I looked at him like he was crazy.  We asked if there was anything in Livingston we should see and he said no (!?!).  At this point we asked to go back to the boat.

Even the Livingston sign looked tired and weary.

We got back in the boat and covered up against the rain.  The 'guide' and the boat captain tried to point things out to us but we both had had enough.  We remained covered through most of the return trip even when they tried to show us birds and iguanas on various islands while it continued to rain.  They suggested going to see the fort from the water and we said no.  The rain had washed away any enthusiasm we had left.

The fact is, any guide with any experience would have looked at the weather forecast and would have canceled this boat ride.  It was a total waste of time.  If the weather would have been good I know I would have thoroughly enjoyed it, it would have been a highlight of the trip, and I would have had dozens of awesome pictures to post but the weather sucked.  Our 'guide', once again, had no plan B and hadn't even checked to see if we wanted to continue with the bad weather coming.  Very disappointed.

Lake Petén Itzá through the jungle from our hotel balcony.

We picked up our bags and went back to the mainland where our 'guide' handed us off to another driver who would take us to Flores and Tikal.  The drive was three hours and it was a nice ride.  Our driver spoke better English and the hours passed by quickly.  We arrived at our hotel on the shore of lake Petén Itzá.  The view from our room looked out through the jungle to the lake.

Tomorrow we would be going to Tikal and hopefully we would have a better last couple days in Guatemala.

Pictures can be found in my 2025-02 Guatemala Google Photos album.

Weekly Ephemera #136

• The first half of this week was dedicated to chores.  I paid the first half of our property taxes on Monday and did some overdue cleaning on Tuesday and Wednesday.
• We probably had our last snow of the season appropriately on the last day of astronomical Winter on Wednesday.  It snowed, the wind blew most of the day, and I had my one and only chance to use the snowblower this Winter.
• On Thursday I got my stent (installed during my kidney stone procedure) removed.  The odd sensation I'd felt for the past week or so was gone immediately.  The doctor suggested that a lot of people have a hard time with their stents but it wasn't much of anything for me.  Next follow up is an ultrasound next month.
• With the stent removed I went for a walk on Friday.  Unlike my last walk, I felt fine this hike proving that what I'd felt the last time was, in fact, the stent.  I walked 8.4 miles (15.6 km).  Unfortunately this destroyed my legs probably because it had been forty-five days since I did a 'real' hike.  Next week I intend to get back to my three walks per week schedule.
• I haven't really watched anything special the last few weeks.  Last night, after seeing a reference to it on social media, I watched the 1959 version of "On the Beach".  It was good but I wouldn't want to watch it if you needed a pick-me-up.  Most post-apocalyptic movies/shows I've seen have always had some amount of survivors.  No matter how bad it was, life went on.  Not in this movie.  It ends with extinction and it's kinda depressing.  (You may want to skip it if you are triggered by suicide.)

2025 Spring Solstice

Today is the Spring equinox in the northern hemisphere.  While I have lamented the lack of a decent winter this season, I do welcome the arrival of astronomical Spring.

I hope everyone has a great first day of Spring!

P.S. For those expecting a Guatemala Post, I am taking a brief break and will post the next one on Monday (probably).

Guatemala 2025 - Days Eight, NIne, And Ten - Things Move Sideways ... To The East

Monday - 02/17 - On the way to Cobán.

We'd reached the halfway point of our trip.  Behind us were all the places I'd been before.  Behind us was a surprisingly good week.  The second week would be a new experience for me.  New places and new experiences.  I couldn't wait.

We were picked up at our hotel in Guatemala City.  We had a new guide.  He was quite different from our previous guide.  For one, his English was very sketchy (at best).  Based on the confused look on his face, he was having difficulty understanding me as well.  Over the next five days we would become unsure if our 'guide' was a guide or just a handler.  He took us out to our bus ... yes, an actual short, forty-ish passenger bus ... for a driver, a guide, and two guests.  It was very comfortable but way too big for the places we would be going.  The driver spoke no English.

The only bird we saw at the bird sanctuary ... not a Quetzal.

We left Guatemala City and headed east.  I'd never been east of the city before.  I was looking forward to seeing new things.  Our first stop was the Ranchito del Quetzal.  Here we would see the Quetzal, the national bird of Guatemala.  The first thing we discovered upon arrival is that none of the local guides spoke English.  The second thing we discovered is that there were no Quetzales at the Ranchito del Quetzal.  Apparently at this time of the year the Quetzal moves to higher altitudes.  For the next hour or so we followed our local guide as he whistled bird calls and pointed out the types of venomous snakes in the sanctuary (not very comforting to the Wife), large hummingbirds (the only actual birds we saw here), lizards, and waterfalls.  I did my best to translate the local guide's explanations to the Wife as our guide didn't do squat.  We ended up going through the shop (no magnets!?) and purchased a very nice painting of Mayan women.  I wanted a t-shirt but they did not have my size.

Waterfalls ... without Quetzals.

My question, at this point is why were we brought here?  Our guide was surprised that there were no Quetzals and that the local guide did not speak English.  One phone call from our guide would have fixed that.  Was it worth our time to stop there?  Was there an alternative?  I truly doubt our guide took the basic steps to ensure it was worth our while.

A tiny little orchid dwarfed by its leaf.

The next stop was Orquigonia, an orchid sanctuary.  The sanctuary is in a restored forest surrounded by clear cut hills.  Orquigonia has over five hundred varieties of orchids that have been painstakingly gathered from all around Guatemala.  The sanctuary is known for having the White Nun orchid, the national flower of Guatemala.  Of course we arrive here to find that the White Nun does not bloom at this time of year.  We also find out that the local guide ... doesn't speak English.  Once again I translated everything for the Wife with no help from our guide.  We did see a lot of orchids and the view from the sanctuary lookout tower was pretty so visiting the sanctuary was definitely worth it.  I learned a lot including how small some are (they give everyone a magnifying glass at the beginning of the tour).  We bought a very nice homemade magnet before leaving.

Another orchid, similar to the White Nun ... but not the White Nun.

We arrived at our destination for the next two nights, Cobán.  Cobán is a working class city.  When you read about what there is to see in Cobán, the first thing they do is have you leave the city.  Our bus stopped at a hotel and we got out.  We tried to check in but it turned out to be the wrong hotel.  Once again, our guide (and driver) didn't have a clue.  You would think they would have checked the address of the hotel before we arrived.  We got back on the bus and drove another five minutes to our actual hotel.  Our hotel was split in two by a busy street.  One side had the main desk, restaurant, gardens, and rooms.  The other part was a small number of rooms around the parking lot.  Guess where we ended up.  They told us it was the quietest part of the hotel but that kinda fell flat with us.

We ate dinner at the hotel and went to bed hoping the next day would be better.

Tuesday - 02/18 - Semuc Champey.

Usually your guide would let you know where we were going and what we would need for the day.  Our guide, for some reason, did not want to talk to us about anything.  We knew we were going to the natural pools of Semuc Champey.  I had an image of a resort/spa where we would rent towels, change in nice changing rooms, and swim in the pools.  What we actually got was not as nice as I'd imagined.

Spring water fed pools.

Our bus dropped us off at a convenience store where we got in a pickup.  The pickup had been hired since the road to the pools would have been difficult for the bus to handle.  The pickup dropped us at the entrance of Semuc Champey.  There were few amenities here.  Rough bathrooms.  No towels to rent.  Only street food to eat which, in Guatemala, was an invitation to Montezuma to have his revenge.

The Cahabón river flows under the pools to the lower left.

We walked down a muddy, rocky path which took us to the pools.  The pools are actually pretty cool.  The Cahabón River passes underneath/through a limestone bridge/tunnel 984 ft (300 m) long.  On top of this bridge/tunnel are spring fed pools that flow into each other.  The water is bluish green and very clear.

We changed into our bathing suits in a rickety changing room with muddy floors.  Our guide kept our stuff as we entered the sun warmed pools.  Every surface near and in the pools was smooth, slimy, and very slippery.  This would never pass muster in the US.  The liability alone would shut it down.  I explored the pools and looked at where the river went under the pools.  It was pretty cool.  The Wife had water shoes and I did not.  I just wore my hiking shoes.  I was able to keep my feet under me until I entered a pool to join the Wife and totally lost my footing.

With 20-20 hindsight I should have taken the scenic trail we'd passed on the way to the pools that went up a strenuous half kilometer trail to a viewpoint overlooking the pools.  I think getting a picture from up there would have been more enjoyable for me than slipping and sliding around the pools.

We returned to Cobán for showers and dinner at the hotel.  I can't say I had the best time at Semuc Champey.  The whole place felt like a let down but I don't know if the issue was Semuc Champey or my attitude at the time.  If my expectations have been calibrated properly and I'd done my own research, I think I would have enjoyed it more.  The place is going to change in the next few years.  A new, nicely paved road now leads to the entrance to the park and it is just a matter of time before it becomes more resort/spa like.  Good?  Bad?  Time will tell.

Wednesday - 02/19 - On the way to Copán Rio Dulce.

We got up early because we had a long driving day ahead of us.  We would be crossing the border into Honduras and spending the night near the Mayan complex of Copán.  We left with bag breakfasts and a warning from our guide that there were rumors of protests along the way.

Not long after leaving Cobán we slowed to a stop in some small town where, sure enough, they were protesting the state of the roads.  As part of their protest they blocked the road.  Going around the obstruction would have required a four wheel drive vehicle or nine hours of driving.  It took our driver and guide three to four hours to figure out what we would do.  Once again, our guide did not have any plan Bs.

Finally, after sitting on the bus for hours (except when we went to the convenience store for a snack), we turned around and headed to Rio Dulce.  Copán was officially off our itinerary.  Rio Dulce would have been our stop at the end of Thursday.  Instead we would stay there for two days.

The setting sun with a bungalow similar to ours silhouetted.

We arrived in Rio Dulce shortly after 5:00pm after eleven hours on the bus.  We caught a boat that took us to Catamaran island where our hotel was located.  We ended up in a bungalow on pylons over the river.  The hotel was very nice and full of American expats.  The first one we met was from Council Bluffs, IA - across the river from where we live - small world.  The 'Yacht rockers', as the Wife referred to them, were a bit cliquey and lost interest in us once they found out we hadn't gotten there by boat.

This whole day was a bust. We spent most of it stuck inside our too-big bus watching the countryside go by.  In the end we ended up in a very nice hotel watching the sun go down and the lights of Rio Dulce turning on for the evening.

Pictures can be found in my 2025-02 Guatemala Google Photos album.

Weekly Ephemera #135

• I got back the prostate biopsy that was taken during my kidney stone removal.  Unlike my first biopsy, performed in 2022, which found no evidence of prostate cancer, this biopsy showed Gleason score 6 prostate cancer in two of the twelve samples.  The Gleason score goes from 6 to 10 with 6 meaning low/very low risk of growth/spreading of the cancer.  The suggested treatment for this is watchful waiting.  I will likely get biopsies annually from now on and my PSA will be monitored.  If the Gleason score goes up, further treatment will likely be necessary.  That said, it could take years for the cancer to progress, so I consider this just another sign of aging.
• Spring is quickly approaching and some of the first signs are making an appearance.  This week several Robins, Redwing Blackbirds, and Mourning Doves made their first appearance in our backyard.
• Pre March madness madness has arrived at the Homer's Travel's household and the Wife will be spending some quality time in the She-Shed until all this basketball craziness is over.
• I went for a walk this week.  I kept it short since only a week had passed since my kidney stone procedure.  Due to some very mild discomfort (probably because of the temporary stent inserted during the kidney stone removal) I decided to hold off on walking until I get the stent removed later this week.  I still managed to walk 5.6 miles (9.0 km).
• I hope everyone has a happy and safe Saint Patrick's Day tomorrow.

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Hope you all are having an irrational ℼ day.

Guatemala 2025 - Days Six And Seven - Antigua

Saturday - 2/15 - The night of the candles.

We left lake Atitlán and drove to the old capital of Guatemala.  Antigua was the Spanish capital of the region from the 1500s until 1773 when it received major damage from an earthquake.  Three years later the capital was moved to where Guatemala City is currently located.  Our guide/driver dropped us at our sprawling hotel.

A small part of the plaza filled with candles.

The Wife wanted to go to early Mass the next day so, after eating dinner at the hotel, we scouted out the short route to the central plaza where the cathedral was located.  The sun was going down and the central plaza was filled with candles.  This was part of the festival of candles where the plaza and some side streets are lit up with candles, food and crafts are sold on the streets, and people mingle.  We did some shopping just off of the plaza before heading back to our hotel.  The candles would have been prettier if we'd stayed until it was darker but we are reverse vampires and are rarely out when it is dark.

Sunday - 2/16 - A walking tour of Antigua.

The Wife got up at 5:00am and walked to the cathedral for Mass.  When she returned around an hour and a half later we went to breakfast, checked out of our hotel, and met up with our driver/guide.  He parked the van closer to the central plaza and, from there, we started a walking tour of Antigua.  We visited churches, former churches used as hospitals, tree lined streets, old colonial buildings, and earthquake damaged ruins (both old earthquakes and the big one of 1976).  Antigua was much more touristy than I remembered.  Homes in some areas were very expensive.  Everything felt bigger and more crowded than what I remembered.  As we walked we noticed Fuego volcano burping smoke and ash.

An earthquake damaged church.

We ended up at the central plaza where we took a short break in the shade  before we visited a jade factory.  Everything at the factory store was beautiful and expensive.  We decided not to purchase anything there.  We did stop at an indoor artisan market not far from where our van was parked.  We didn't find anything we wanted there either.  I looked at a 'jade' mask but I don't believe it was actually jade and the seller said it was and priced it as if it were.  I walked away when he showed be a cheap looking reproduction of a reproduction.

An arch used by cloistered
nuns to cross the street.

We stopped at a food place and bought some sandwiches and snacks for the road we got back in the van and headed back to Guatemala City.

Up to this point we'd visited places I 'd been before.  We had a great guide who knew his stuff and was very talkative.  The weather also cooperated.  We really enjoyed what we'd seen and done and it was interesting to me seeing how things had changed and how my memory played tricks on me. Next week we would be going to places I'd never been before.  I'd never been in the eastern part of Guatemala and everything we saw this week was in the west.  I was really looking forward to seeing new things.  Unfortunately the luck we'd had the first week did not continue during our second.  

Pictures can be found in my 2025-02 Guatemala Google Photos album.

Book: Danial Suarez's "Delta-V"

My fourth book of the year was from an author I've read before, Daniel Suarez.  It's been fourteen years since I read "Daemon" and "Freedom".  His new book, the first of two, is "Delta-V", a near future science fiction book about asteroid mining.

There are really two parallel tales in this book.  The main one is the selection, training, and launching of the asteroid miners.  The secondary tale is about the subterfuge and law bending used to finance the asteroid mining mission.  The main tale is well written and interesting.  The secondary tale stretches credulity.

Credulity is a variable.  If I'd read this book when it first came out in 2019 I would have really struggled with that secondary tale, but now, after a couple months of the President and Elmo, I could start to see something like this happening in our 'new world chaos'.  Along with this I found it weird that the American life seen in the background of the storytelling was so normal.  I struggled to understand how we could get from where we are to where the book is in the mid 2030s.  This has always been an issue for me.  I once stopped reading a Clancy-esque war drama after the collapse of the Soviet Union.  I just couldn't get over how the world in the book could no longer mesh with the real world.  I guess you could say, in terms of near term sci-fi, we have reached the singularity.

Despite this I liked the book and gave it four stars out of five on Goodreads.  It was interesting enough that I have added the sequel to my reading list.

Guatemala 2025 - Days Five And Six - Lake Atitlán

Friday - 02/14 - Arriving to Lake Atitlán

We left the market in Solola and drove to Guatemala's second largest lake, Lake Atitlán.  On the way we stopped at a viewpoint.  From here you could see the volcanoes on the south side of the lake.  In the middle of the picture are the twin volcanoes of Atitlán and Tolimán.  To the right of those is the volcano of San Pedro.  The lake itself is a collapsed caldera and is very deep.  The viewpoint also had vendor stalls and we bought a few treasures.

Lake Atitlán and its volcanoes.

We left the viewpoint and headed to our hotel on the shores of the lake.  We were too early to check in so we had some lunch out on the veranda overlooking the pool and lake.  As we ate a pretty good lunch several helicopters came in and dropped off guests with their luggage.  Nothing says 'Income Gap' like arriving at your hotel in a helicopter.

The view from our balcony.

We checked in and went to our room.  Our room's balcony looked out over the lake, pool, and the extensive hotel gardens.  We spent the rest of the afternoon walking through the gardens admiring the flowers, going to the water's edge and dipping our fingers in (it was a cold lake), and chilling at the bar.

Saturday - 02/15 - A boat ride around the lake.

There are eleven towns and villages on the shore of the lake.  We would be visiting three.  The first was Panajachel.  Panajachel is a tourist place and we didn't spend much time here.  We parked our van, took a Tuk Tuk (something introduced to Guatemala after I left) to the harbor, and got on our boat.

One of the many San Juan la Laguna murals.

A short boat ride took us to San Juan la Laguna.  Several of the towns around the lake compete for tourism quetzales and San Juan is no different.  The town has decorated its streets with murals, bright colors, and hanging street decorations.  The mural artists from around the lake are famous and do commissioned work all over Guatemala.

Decorated streets.

After visiting some of the better murals we stopped at a cooperative where we learned about the local Mayan weavers.  I left with a hand woven T-shirt.  From there we went to a chocolate factory where we learned about cacao.  The Wife discovered that white chocolate is not really chocolate (I've told her before but it took a Mayan chocolatier to convince her).  We tasted various levels of dark chocolate.  The dark chocolate in Guatemala is sweeter than in the American dark.  I would say 80% Guatemalan chocolate is about the same as 70% in the states.  I tried 100% which was obviously bitter but not nearly as bad as I expected.  We left with some white chocolate, 70%, and 80% bars.

We returned to our boat and went to a town that we added to our itinerary, Santiago Atitlán.  The Wife wanted to visit the church here where the heart of an American martyr is kept.  Stanley Rother, known as Padre Apla to the local Mayan people, ran the mission in Guatemala from 1968 to 1981 when he was murdered by the Guatemalan army who accused him of rendering aid to the rebels.  In 2017 he was beatified by Pope Francis.

We returned to our boat, returned to Panajachel, and tuk tuked back to our van.  We left the lake and headed to our next destination, the city of Antigua.

Pictures can be found in my 2025-02 Guatemala Google Photos album.

Weekly Ephemera #134

• On Tuesday I went in to have a kidney stone removed.  Recovering from that procedure pretty much knocked me out for the rest of the week.  To clarify, one of the drugs I am taking to facilitate passing of any small stone remnants easier, has a side effect of reducing your blood pressure.  This has resulted in me being a little dizzy and lethargic.  I have to take it for two weeks and I'm sure those will be a fun, lethargic, and dizzying two weeks.
• It snowed overnight after my procedure.  I would have loved to clear the snow but couldn't so the Wife had to.  This Winter is turning into a bust for me.  Barely any snow at all and the most we've had happened while we were in Guatemala so missed the fun.  It doesn't feel like we had a Winter at all.  Next week we're hitting 75℉ (24℃).  Phewy!
• On Friday I purchased plane tickets, bus tickets, and made a hotel reservation for the Wife's Camino part two.  We are flying into Madrid late May and will take four to five weeks to finish.
• Hope you sprang forward today.  I had a hard time getting to sleep on Saturday night and I woke up a zombie today.  I don't remember Daylight Saving Time hitting me this hard before.  I wish we would just stay on standard time.

Guatemala 2025 - Days Four And Five - Market Days In The Mayan Highlands

Thursday - 02/13 - Chichicastenango

We Checked out of our hotel and left the city.  We were the only people with our guide/driver Marco.  We had a two to three hour drive to the town of Chichicastenango (Chichi for short).  Chichi, located in the Mayan Highlands, is famous for their market.  Every Thursday and Sunday the town fills up with stalls selling handicrafts and food.  I'd been there several times in the 70s before it became too dangerous due to the civil war.

A display of Mayan rituals.

The drive up to Chichi, located at 6,500 ft (1,965 m), takes you through Guatemala's mountainous countryside and is very twisty and turny, especially near the end.  The Wife has been known to get a little queasy when she's on twisty roads.  At our first rest stop where we bought some snacks and used the facilities, the Wife brought up her issue with the driver.  He suggested a 'home remedy' which consisted of putting a folded newspaper on your lower abdomen over your belly button.  We all smiled at this, including the guide, but the Wife did it anyway.  For the remainder of the drive the Wife had a lively conversation about politics and religion with the driver.  By the time we reached Chichi the Wife realized she felt fine.  Was it the newspaper on her abdomen or was it the fact the driver kept her distracted the entire drive up through the hairpin curves?  We may never know.

The Chichicastenango market.

We checked into our hotel, located in an old convent, before walking a hundred feet to the city square.  The square was filled with market stalls.  Originally there were two Mayan temples on the central plaza - roughly on the east-west axis.  The stairs of the temples still exist but churches were built on top by the Spanish.  The 'church' of the west is primarily used as a Mayan temple where locals worship using a mixture of Catholic and Mayan rituals.  The church on the east is an active Catholic church though some Mayan rituals are also performed there as well.

After visiting the churches, our guide left the afternoon for ourselves.  We ate a good lunch at the hotel restaurant and admired the gardens, parrots, and decor of the historic hotel.  Then we got our shopping on.  We walked through the stalls looking at huipiles (Mayan embroidered blouses), carvings, Mary figures, and of course, magnets.  We came out with a bag full of treasures.

The colorful Chichicastenango cemetery.

The fireplace in our room.

We dropped our purchases in our room and then walked to the nearby colorful cemetery.  The cemetery is known for being the most colorful cemetery in Guatemala.  The mausoleums and crypts are painted in vibrant colors.  Sadly the trash between the graves was a bit distracting.  I mentioned that Guatemala City is very clean but the countryside, and this cemetery, has a major litter problem.  On the way back we grabbed some snacks from a tienda and went to the hotel bar.

At Chichi's altitude, it gets pretty cold in the 'winter'.  Our room had a wood burning fireplace and we took full advantage of that fact.  We spent the evening sitting in front of the fire and eating our snacks.  It was a near perfect evening.

Friday - 02/14 - Solola

We were picked up by our driver/guide after breakfast and we headed to the town of Solola.  Here we were visiting another market which was more of an everyday food and grocery market with some handicrafts on the side.  It was really crowded and I didn't really handle it so well.  I didn't take any pictures and we didn't buy anything that I remember.  All I remember was I was happy to get out of the crowd and back into our van.

We ended our day in a very nice hotel on the shores of lake Atitlan.

Pictures can be found in my 2025-02 Guatemala Google Photos album.

Guatemala 2025 - Days Zero Through Three - Getting There, The City, And A Volcano Or Four

Sunday - 02/09 - Getting there.

We had a very early flight out of Omaha.  Our Uber arrived at 3:45am and dropped us off a couple hours before our flight to Houston.  Our original connecting flight departure in Houston was too close to our arrival time so we changed it to a later flight a week or so before we traveled.  While we waited in Houston we got a call from the tour company in Guatemala asking where we were.  Apparently our travel agent didn't tell them about the change.

We arrived in Guatemala and breezed through immigration and didn't even have to wait for our bags.  Our driver, who had wasted a lot of time on us took us to our hotel and got a sizable tip from us.  I recognized a few things along the way but I could see things like traffic patterns and the number of big buildings were drastically different from when I lived there.

Our hotel was the Camino Real which was a nice hotel back in the 70s when I lived in Guatemala.  It is still a nice hotel.  Strangely enough the orientation of the hotel was turned 90° from what I remember - another quirk of my faulty memory.

Monday - 02/10 - Exploring my old stomping grounds.

Today was a free day for us with no tours scheduled.  We stopped at the front desk after breakfast and asked how safe it would be to walk to my old neighborhood.  They assured us that it would be safe as long as we didn't make ourselves obvious targets and we should watch for pickpockets and people on motorcycles snatching bags.  This hadn't changed much in the forty-eight years since I lived there.

Simon Bolivar.

We left the hotel with nothing but our phones and some carefully stashed cash/cards in case we needed to buy anything.  I used to live in zone 14 not far from the hotel in zone 10.  We passed what used to be a large congested traffic circle that now included an underpass and a drastic change/improvement in traffic flow.

From the traffic interchange I started to look for landmarks that would help me navigate.  The building where my dentist was was still there.  The sports fields where my brother used to play pickup basketball games was still there (but larger and with a fence I didn't remember.  Our grocery store was replaced by a multi-story shopping center with a theater.  The Hardees, the first fast food joint to open in Guatemala, was gone ... replaced with a Burger King.  [When I left Guatemala in 1981 there were only two fast food places - Hardees and a KFC.  Now there are fast food places everywhere.]  Overall there were so many more tall buildings in zone 14.

I was a bit lost until I saw a Shell station.  It was across from a former traffic circle (no longer open to traffic) with a monument that looked familiar.  It was where my school bus dropped us off at the end of each school day.  This told me I'd missed my turn by a block or so.  We backtracked a little and walked through a church's parking lot and arrived at the entrance to my neighborhood ... now blocked by a gate.  It turns out my old neighborhood is now a gated community.  We talked to a couple of guards.  I explained I once lived here and wanted to show my house to the Wife but their response was "No es permitido" - It is not permitted.  I guess you can't go home again, as they say.

We returned to the main drag and crossed to the wide-park like median separating the boulevard and walked back along the statues and monuments built along the Avenida de Las Americas.

After returned to the hotel we went to the pool.  The Wife would make many visits to the pool.  I only made one serious visit where I took a dip in the pool and read my book under the shade of an umbrella.  Despite this shade my face and the top of my feet and my shins were burnt to a lobster red.

We realized the tour(s) we were on didn't include a tour of the city so we arranged for a city tour on a second free day we had.

The lesson for this day was that Guatemala City has changed a lot since I lived here.  It was a lot cleaner than I remember.  Things were built up a lot more.  Traffic was just as heavy as it was before but it flowed better ... sometimes.  US brands were everywhere.  Walmart was even here.  While I would say a lot of this growth was good for the city, the foreign capitalism probably wasn't that great.

Tuesday - 02/11 - Visiting the Pacaya Volcano.

When I was a kid we joined the neighbors and went to see the Pacaya volcano.  I have some pretty cool memories of that day but no photos.  We climbed up an inactive cone and looked down into the shorter active cone seeing molten lava and feeling gravel rain down (yeah, it was probably not very safe for us to be where we were).  Today we went on a tour to see how my memories held up.

The big three volcanoes - From right to left - Agua, Acatenango, and Fuego.

We were picked up at the hotel (along with a lady from Argentina working in Guatemala) and driven up to a small town not far from the volcano.  From there we started a 1.9 mile (3 km) hike up.  The Wife opted to ride a horse up the trail.  It was a steep hike and I was a bit pooped when we reached the top.  The altitude didn't help.

Along the way we had views of other volcanoes like Agua (dormant) and Fuego (very active) - there are thirty-seven volcanoes in Guatemala.  The Wife was amazed at how 'volcano-like' they looked.  She had seen volcanoes before - namely the Hawaii ones - but those didn't have the classic truncated cone shaped peak of most of the Guatemalan volcanoes.

The trail ended at an overlook where you could see Pacaya.  It had changed a lot since I saw it in the 70s.  There was only one cone now - I assume the active cone grew and merged with the dormant cone we had climbed.  There was a wisp of gases and smoke coming out of the cone as we took pictures.  As you can see, the weather was perfect.  The days before and after were overcast - our one day of weather luck.

Pacaya volcano.

We started the return trip on another trail.  We stopped briefly to roast multi-colored marshmallows over a steam vent near the volcano's base.

The drive back to the hotel was longer as we had to divert to Antigua (which we would visit at the end of the week) to bypass a traffic incident on the main highway.  Traffic hasn't changed at all.

The Wife went back to the pool while I chilled in the room - I didn't need to be any redder.

Wednesday - 02/12 - A Guatemala City Tour.

 On our second free day we were picked up for a short tour of Guatemala City.  There really isn't much to see in the city.  We visited an overview (with no views today because of the low clouds but with pieces of the Berlin Wall), the National Palace, the Basilica of Santiago, and the 'new' market (the original was destroyed by the 1976 earthquake - I was there but I don't remember the market being damaged).

The (former) National Palace.

After a few hours of walking around the old downtown you realize there weren't that many old buildings mostly because of the 1976 earthquake.  The result is a rather ordinary downtown area.  While Guatemala City is the biggest capital city in Central America, it doesn't have very much to see while you're there.  The interesting stuff is outside of the city which is where we would go next.  We were both ready to leave the city and see the countryside.

Pictures can be found in my 2025-02 Guatemala Google Photos album.

Weekly Ephemera #133

• We returned from Guatemala late Sunday night.  Guatemala is in the same time zone as Nebraska so no jet lag.  We both returned without catching anything which is always a plus.  We both had a good time in Guatemala.  While I was in Guatemala I decided not to read Bluesky.  It was nice to have two weeks of no doom scrolling.  The Wife, who did monitor the news on Bluesky, did keep me informed though.
• While we were gone we missed winter.  While we were in Guatemala - Land of Eternal Spring - there was snow and below zero temperatures (one day the high temperature in our backyard was 1.8℉, -16.8℃).  It bounced back into the 50s when we got back so we missed it completely.
• On Monday I had a pre-op exam in preparation for my kidney stone removal this week.  Everything went well.  The procedure is scheduled for late Tuesday afternoon.  It was going to be early on Tuesday morning but they called to reschedule.  Not exactly happy about this but it is what it is.
• On Wednesday I started catching up on a few movies that came out during our trip.  I started with "Captain America: Brave New World".  I really liked it with its many, somewhat obscure, call backs to previous Marvel movies.
  
  On Thursday I went to see the Oscar nominated live action and animated shorts.  Watching the shorts at our local art house theater has become a pseudo-annual ritual of mine.  They were pretty good this year.  I don't really have any favorites.  Several ended without a definite outcome which was a bit disappointing but otherwise they were all well done.  It was nice that there really weren't any Pixar/Disney entries.
• On Friday I did our taxes.  We owe less than $50 which is the way it should be.  I have to admit, taxes are really easy when you are retired.